Portuguese Viceroys and Governors

Dom Francisco de Almeida, Viceroy and Governor, 1503-1509



Dom Afonso de Albuquerque, Viceroy, 1509-1515



Dom Garcia de Noronha, Viceroy, 1538-1540



Dom Estevao da Gama, Governor, 1540-1542



Martim Affonso de Sousa, Governor, 1542-1545



Dom Joao de Castro, Governor, Captain-in-Chief, 1545-1548



Garcia da Sa, Governor, 1548-1549



Jorge Cabral, Governor, 1549-1550



Dom Affonso de Noronha, Viceroy, 1550-1554



Dom Pedro Mascarenhas, Viceroy, 1554-1555



Francisco Barreto, Governor, 1555-1558

Kadamba Sculptures

One of the consequences of Tughluq, Bahmani, Bijapur and finally Portuguese incursion into Goa, is a dearth of Kadamba and pre-Kadamba religious artifacts and buildings. Although a great civilisation once flourished in Goa, under Kadamba patronage, nearly everything was destroyed from the fourteenth century until the nineteenth century. 

This 12th century statue found in Assoldem depicts the goddess Durga in her Mahishasurmardini incarnation slaying the demon buffalo 'Mahaishasura'. A lion stands at her right.

A defaced and amputated 'Yakshi' sits cross legged in Padmasana form. Statue found in Sanquelim and estimated to be from the 14th century.

A statue of Kubera Yaksha seated in a Sukhasana posture holding a citrus in one hand and a lotus in the other. 12th century. Kothambi.

A Jain statue of a 'tirthankara' (one who has attained supreme knowledge) in meditation. The left arms appears to have been purposely mutilated. From Kudnem and dated approximately to the 15th century.

Another enlightened figure standing in a body abandonment posture surrounded by twenty three similarly enlightened but smaller figures. This statue dated to the 13th century originates from the Sancoale area in Murmugao.

A women about to commit sati by throwing herself into the funeral pyre of her husband. The stone was most probably used to honour the women in question. It was found in Deussua in Salcette and dates from the 11th century.

Slave Market 1608

Human cargo formed an essential part of the many commodities traded and exchanged in sixteenth and seventieth century Goa. The following description by the French traveller Francois Pyrard, himself brought to Goa as a prisoner in chains in 1608, brings to life the ambiance of the market:

"Having spoken in the preceding chapter of the squares of the town, I shall proceed to say something of the markets. These markets, as far as regards provisions, are held every working day, and even on the lesser festivals, from six or seven in the morning until noon…There are to be found there all sorts of persons, nobles and humble, of all nations and religions...In this place are to be seen all kinds of merchandise, among others, numbers of slaves, whom they drive there as we do horses here; and you see the sellers come with great troops following. Then in order to sell them they praise them and put them up, telling all they can do, their craft, strength, and health, while the buyers examine them, question them, and scan them all over with curiosity, both males and females. The slaves themselves, hoping better treatment with a change of masters, show their disposition and praise themselves to take the fancy of the buyers. In buying, however, a certain day is agreed upon beforehand for repudiating or closing the bargain, so that they have time to learn the truth. You see there very pretty and elegant girls and women from all countries of India, most of whom can play upon instruments, embroider, sew very finely, and do all kinds of work, such as the making of sweetmeats, preserves, etc. All these slaves are very cheap, the dearest not being worth more than 20 or 30 perdos, of 32 sols each. Girls that are virgins are sold as such, and are examined by women, so that none dare use any trickery. They deem it no sin to have intercourse with their slaves whom they have bought, so long as they are not married: for a girl's master being the man who marries her, she may not be so used after a man has plighted his troth to her. Some of these girls are very pretty, fair, and comely, others are olive-coloured, brown, and of all colours. But those to whom they are usually most attracted are the Caifre girls of Mozambique and other places in Africa, who are as wondrously black, with curly hair; they call these Negra de Guinea. It is a remarkable fact which I have observed among all the Indian peoples, as well males as females, that their bodies and perspiration have no smell, whereas the negroes of Africa, from both sides of the Cape of Good Hope, stink in such wise that when they are heated it is impossible to approach them: their savour is as bad as that of green leeks….The largest revenues and wealth of those at Goa are from the labour of their slaves, who, every evening, or at the week's end, bring what they are required to produce; others, again, are retained at their houses to wait upon them. In this market are also to be seen a great number of other slaves that are not for sale, but themselves bring the work they have done, such as tapestry, embroideries, and needle- work; as also preserves, fruits, and other things. Others earn money by fetching and carrying anything required. The girls deck themselves out in fine style for this purpose, so as to be more attractive, and to sell their goods the better. In short, one sees there the wealth of the Indies in all kinds, and jewels the finest that can be seen. There also are the money changers, called Cherafes, of whom there are several at other points. Their shops are at the ends of streets and at the cross-roads, all covered with money, whereof they pay a tribute to the king."

Nossa Senhora do Amparo 1710

Nossa Senhora do Amparo  was built in a Mannerist neo-Roman style by Don Dionisio Rebeiro in 1710. Seven years later it was elevated to the status of a parish church. In 2007, the parishioners laid a new plaque over the tomb of Don Rebeiro in gratitude for his having built the church.

Borim Bridge 1961

After several years of failed negotiations and deteriorating relations between the Portuguese and Indian governments over the status of Goa, the Indian Armed Forces launched a military operation to occupy the disputed territory. In the fighting that ensued, the Portuguese blew up a key strategic bridge over the Zuari river, linking Salcete with Ponda, in an attempt to delay the advance of Indian troops.

Corjeum Fort shrine

The Royal Palace of Sawantwadi

 

The red laterite of the royal palace overlooking the lake becomes visible as soon as one approaches Sawantadi. The reigning Bhonsle family, lived here in modest splendour, from the time of the kingdom’s absorption into the British Raj. British influence, much in contrast to neighbouring Goa, is in abundant evidence. Many of the supposedly historical clichés and stereotypes associated with Princely States come to life.

First, Lestor Gate, “opened for carriages and general use in 1895”, and which one still has to enter to reach the palace, was as its name suggests, British in inspiration and design. The same can be said of the palace. In some corners, it even resembles large farmhouses one finds in France. European influence is all pervasive. The royal durbar hall itself was designed by a certain “Lieutenant-Colonel E. P. Cambier R. E.” - whatever the last two initials mean. (Royal Engineers?) That is not all. Inside, behind the royal throne, lies a large bust of a typically grumpy looking Queen Victoria. It is one of the few places where she still holds a place of honour in India. In the museum section of the palace, there are interesting photographs of a bygone era revealing the close relations between the Princes and the British. One sees the same durbar hall (which has hardly changed since that era) filled with stiff looking English officials and elegantly dressed English ladies mingling with the royal family, while turbaned waiters stand sentry like nearby, amidst hunting trophies, a British flag and - of course – Queen Victoria. It makes one realise that the popular images of the Princely States are neither cliché nor stereotypical.

There are some indications that the British Raj, however, did come to an end. For example – and most ironically – at the other end of the hall, directly opposite the bust of Victoria, hangs a large painting of Shivaji. It might not be so ironic in itself had the kingdom of Sawantwadi not been a close ally of the Bijapur Sultanate and then the Mughal empire. History is apparently quickly forgotten when it comes to royal decoration. This irony, however, is partially explained by the fact that the painting was presented recently by a local school to the royal family. Where else to place a painting of Maharashtra’s most popular hero but the durbar. The British are no longer present to complain. One can only wonder what the bust of Queen Victoria feels staring at this intruder waving his sword at her everyday.

Inevitably, one finds the usual stuffed animal, in this case a leopard, proudly shot by his Royal Highness and displayed in a prominent glass enclosure. The hunting of rare animals was one of the most contemptible aspects of Princely Indian life, but it apparently remains a source of pride here. There is even a tiger positioned near the throne, although it is not clear if it stuffed or a fake. Either way, it is falling apart and could do with some restoration.

After the durbar one is escorted by the palace guide (compulsory not optional) to the museum. There one finds everything from bric-a-brac to precious antiquities – all presented as gifts to the royal family. Of particular interest are some ancient stone sculptures of Hindu gods going back to the 10^th century. They are all the more interesting as much of the Hindu heritage in this region was ravaged by the Portuguese. (One rarely comes across such sculptures in Goa). The gifts are not only indigenous. They range from a Nepali idol to a Japanese World War II flag.

Proceeding onwards, the tour inevitably ends at the gift shop. In this case a tastefully arranged handicraft shop which displays some of the traditional art forms Sawantwadi is famous for. There are also some useful Marathi and English books for sale on the history of Sawantwadi.